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In conversations with eight founders and leaders, Vogue Business explores how the next chapter of British manufacturing is being written. British manufacturing has an amazing heritage, but we’re not resting on our laurels. Earlier this year, we launched a diffusion line called JS by John Smedley, which is all about doing things differently, perhaps using fewer design details or processes, so we can offer the same quality at a different price point. We turned that around in eight weeks. We can move quickly because we make everything here. We might have an ageing workforce, but they’re not ageing out of enthusiasm, skill or creativity. We make around 4,000 units per week and each one has 35 people involved, all of whom take great collective pride in what they do. It’s all about balancing the old and the new. After the pandemic, we invested £4 million in new machinery, which has allowed us to flex our creativity and open up third-party manufacturing again. In the first month, we had over 65 brands enquiring, but a lot just wanted an anniversary collection or a single product. I don’t want to be a nice marketing story for someone. I want tangible, long-term relationships with brands that are passionate about supporting British manufacturing. Around 70 per cent of the third-party manufacturing we do is a collaboration. When our founder started making products in 1784, he was one of the first factory owners to stamp his products, so people knew it was the highest quality. Today, we’re the oldest manufacturer in the world that is still manufacturing, and we believe we make the highest quality product in the UK. Why wouldn’t brands want a joint label?The Only Criminals Destroying This Country Are The President And The Billionaires Tee Shirt
John Smedley has several siblings working alongside each other, as well as multiple generations of the same families. Tina, in the cutting department, has worked there for almost 40 years. After Covid, we grew by about 25 per cent a year for three years — I think that bounce back benefited a lot of UK manufacturers. In the last year, the growth we were all expecting hasn’t come to fruition because of the luxury slowdown. But we remain very confident in the future of luxury globally. There’s still economic growth in places like China and India. The industry needs to focus on maintaining a critical mass in the UK and making sure that we don’t lose so much capacity that it starts to spiral. I started at Johnstons 14 years ago [as financial director], and there’s been a number of companies over that time that haven’t made it. Others have gone from strength to strength. There’s not a one-size-fits-all issue here. Our model is 75 per cent private label, which drives the business forward, giving us the volume, and then 25 per cent own brand, which helps us communicate the heritage of Johnstons of Elgin [which was founded in 1797]. We are able to make everything in our own mills in Scotland as we have some scale, but for new young brands, it’s more difficult — they sometimes have little choice but to source from outside of the UK for cost and capability reasons.
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