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In New York, mid and plus-size representation dipped from 6 per cent last season to 4 per cent for AW25. Bach Mai and Willy Chavarria, who made the top 10 for NYFW last season, did not show this fashion week. Jane Wade and Collina Strada ranked first and second, respectively, with around a quarter of their casts made up of either plus or mid-size models. London remained the most size inclusive out of the big four, but even still, mid and plus-size representation almost halved, from 13 per cent last season to 7 per cent this season. Karoline Vitto — who is known for her inclusive size range and topped the London ranks last season — did not show, opting instead for a showroom concept. Sinéad O’Dwyer, Chopova Lowena and Di Petsa, who typically cast with size diversity in mind, led the way this season.Officials Maga Red Hat Same Shit Different Costume Caricature Shirt
The rise of conservative ideals has emphasised the notion of control, particularly when it comes to women’s bodies. “These trends aren’t just about health or aesthetics; they reflect a deeper societal push towards restraint, discipline and control over one’s body,” says Hastings-Narayanin. “When women’s rights are restricted, there’s often a corresponding pressure to embody an ideal that is not only physically controlled but also hyper-feminine and submissive to male desire.” It’s well documented how the rise of Ozempic has impacted beauty standards, too, but cultural theorists say the rising accessibility of GLP-1 drugs may have led to the rise in manufactured curves. “Rapid weight loss without strength training leads to muscle atrophy, sagging skin and a frail appearance. The wealthy will have access to the best trainers, treatments and surgeries to prevent these side effects. They’ll maintain just the right amount of muscle tone, avoid looking ‘sickly’ and undergo the necessary interventions to ensure their thinness appears effortless,” says Hastings-Narayanin. “Even if thinness itself becomes more accessible, aspirational thinness — with youthful, tight skin and sculpted curves in just the right places — will remain the domain of the elite. The beauty standard will always stay just out of reach, requiring ongoing investment to maintain.”
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