Official Change Repeat With Colors Shirt
“Carlos doesn’t brag about his work, he’s quite secret,” says Tran, who hoped this multi-pronged project could help his art reach new audiences. “I asked him to tell me everything.” Indeed, Peñafiel dropped all of his mammoth archive to Tran’s office: photos, press clippings and negatives, two bags filled with miniature mockups of leather furniture, and a shoebox containing the original model of the Chaussures à doigts. Tran also recalls finding images, taken by fellow artist Estelle Hanania, that show the “dust-veiled, almost archaeological feel of his studio,” where Peñafiel’s leather pieces, plaster forms, and sculptural objects sat. While Lemaire’s collaboration with Peñafiel started with pure curiosity and admiration for his craftsmanship, over time, it’s grown into something deeper. “At first, he was quite reserved—he’d only talk about his work when asked—but through our working sessions, travels, and conversations, a real dialogue developed,” says Tran. “Little by little, he shared more about his process, his philosophy, and the thinking behind his designs.”Official Change Repeat With Colors Shirt
The biggest challenge in their work together has been scaling production while staying in step with Peñafiel’s independent artistic language: “finding ways to bring his work into a broader context without losing its essence,” as Tran puts it. “There’s something beautifully irrational about it all, but that’s the magic of Lemaire’s independence.” Unlike traditional leather bags, which are assembled with stitching and panels, Peñafiel’s Carlos bag was designed as a seamless, molded object. As such, it requires a completely different approach in terms of both craftsmanship and production. Peñafiel shaped the bag by hand, refining its curves in clay and plaster to create an organic, ergonomic form—one that would sit naturally against the body while maintaining a strong, sculptural shape. Its mold was then digitized and turned into metal, allowing a factory to produce it in larger quantities. This step was particularly delicate, because leather can behave unpredictably when wet and stretched. “Scaling up production is always a challenge—machines can’t replicate the subtlety of handwork, so adjustments had to be made,” says Tran. The work obviously paid off: In February 2020, Peñafiel himself walked the Lemaire runway with their designs. Did that take much convincing? “No, it was effortless,” says Tran. “Carlos, like many of the models we have been working with for so many years, is part of the family.”
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