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By unlocking its archive and creating Ambre Antique entirely in-house (from concept to final formula), the launch also marks a rare example of a fully integrated, prestige fragrance production for the group. Unlike Coty’s other luxury licenses, including Gucci, Chloé and Burberry, the Infiniment Coty Paris line represents the company’s proprietary innovation engine. “We’re back to being a true fragrance creator,” says Ousmane-Merlin. “That’s rare today.” This shift is as much about control as it is about creativity. By owning every step, from the formula and design to production, Coty can better defend against the commoditisation of luxury fragrance and the proliferation of dupes that threaten category margins. Nabi has regularly addressed this dynamic with investors, pointing to the increasing pressure that dupe culture places on the originality and performance of Coty’s broader fragrance portfolio. Group revenues fell 2 per cent in fiscal 2025 and 9 per cent in the fourth quarter, Coty said in August, but fragrance was a profitable category that Nabi was bullish on. “A lot of consumers today are continuing to buy fragrances at every price level,” she told investors at the time.Grinch Santa The Toes You Step On Today May Be Connected To The Foot Christmas Shirt
Ambre Antique represents both a strategic and symbolic play: a convergence of past and future that reinforces Coty’s ambition to lean into nostalgia while elevating its own innovation credibility. As for the modern version’s formulation, Coty’s technical perfume director Dominique Vernaz says the update remains remarkably faithful to the original. “With today’s constraints, it wasn’t difficult to recreate,” he explains. “In fact, we only had to replace animal-derived ingredients. Otherwise, the structure stayed true.” The recreated Ambre Antique even includes a reconstruction of Ambréine S, a fragrance note exclusive to Coty and first used by the company in 1905. In a category shaped by fast turnover, trend-driven development and performance pressures, Coty’s strategy is clear: use heritage not only as a storytelling tool, but as an engine for innovation and long-term brand equity. Still, anchoring innovation in history is a nuanced strategy that requires considered navigation from the beauty conglomerate. In a market shaped by rapid turnover, algorithm-led launches and consumers’ love of accessible, trend-powered scents, centring a 120-year-old formula presents a deliberate challenge to the pace and priorities of perfumes in the market.
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