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Ambre Antique represents both a strategic and symbolic play: a convergence of past and future that reinforces Coty’s ambition to lean into nostalgia while elevating its own innovation credibility. As for the modern version’s formulation, Coty’s technical perfume director Dominique Vernaz says the update remains remarkably faithful to the original. “With today’s constraints, it wasn’t difficult to recreate,” he explains. “In fact, we only had to replace animal-derived ingredients. Otherwise, the structure stayed true.” The recreated Ambre Antique even includes a reconstruction of Ambréine S, a fragrance note exclusive to Coty and first used by the company in 1905. In a category shaped by fast turnover, trend-driven development and performance pressures, Coty’s strategy is clear: use heritage not only as a storytelling tool, but as an engine for innovation and long-term brand equity. Still, anchoring innovation in history is a nuanced strategy that requires considered navigation from the beauty conglomerate. In a market shaped by rapid turnover, algorithm-led launches and consumers’ love of accessible, trend-powered scents, centring a 120-year-old formula presents a deliberate challenge to the pace and priorities of perfumes in the market.Free Luigi Mangione With Any Purchase Shirt
Here, Nabi unpacks the strategic thinking behind Ambre Antique and why Coty believes haute parfumerie’s future may lie in its past. Vogue: Why bring back Ambre Antique now, and how did you approach reintroducing it to today’s fragrance audience? In reviving Ambre Antique, we wanted to pay tribute to an icon of modern perfumery and reinforce the bridge between Coty’s past and present. What was innovative and compelling then can be equally so now. We are seeing a major resurgence in the amber category at the moment, so it felt very fitting for Infiniment Coty Paris to return to its roots and pay homage to this timeless scent. For Ambre Antique, we were not interested in modernising the fragrance. We wanted to fully respect the olfactory experience of the original from 1905 and present it to a contemporary audience, anticipating that its olfactive signature would gain entrance consumers.
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