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Michael Rider was announced as the new creative director of Celine, following Hedi Slimane’s simultaneous exit, in October 2024. Rider’s debut show has been scheduled for the evening of 6 July in Paris this summer, a curtain-raiser to Haute Couture Week, which kicks off on 7 July. He was most recently creative director of Polo Ralph Lauren, though his appointment is a homecoming at Celine: he worked under Phoebe Philo as design director for ready-to-wear. This off-schedule show will mark Celine’s return to the IRL show format following Slimane’s video presentations, which were released with no set cadence. Glenn Martens’s debut at Maison Margiela is confirmed to happen during Haute Couture Week, running from 7 to 10 July, this summer in Paris. It’s a smart move from Margiela, given that Martens would have to otherwise compete with the many debuting designers for the spotlight during the ready-to-wear shows in September and October. Peter Copping and Lanvin did a similar thing in January, staging his debut during the menswear season and circumventing the stacked Paris ready-to-wear schedule in late February that included buzzy debuts.Boy Arrow Up Shirt
This move all but guarantees Martens to have a moment, and establishes continuity between his Margiela and that of John Galliano. The latter’s swan song, lest we forget, was the spring 2024 Margiela Artisanal collection that seemingly took over the world. By debuting with couture, Margiela and Martens are making a commitment to the creative legacy of the house before they begin outlining their business-minded choices with ready-to-wear. Demna’s finale at Balenciaga will be his fifth couture collection for the house. It’s a fitting farewell given that he was the first designer at the house, following Cristóbal Balenciaga himself, to design its couture. Gucci, where he is headed, does not currently show couture, but it certainly has a roaster of starry ambassadors to outfit for the red carpet, in addition to its annual LACMA Gala, which Sabato De Sarno turned into an opportunity to release Gucci Notte, an eveningwear collection. There is currently no successor announced for Demna — whoever takes on the role next has a robust brief to fulfil.
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