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It can take years for workers to earn a spot in the lifetime-service centre. Where other production workers just have to master a single skill, they have to prove excellence across stitching, cutting and colour-matching. They need an encyclopedic knowledge of the Mulberry archive and the skills to bring even the oldest and most dishevelled of bags back to their former glory, without compromising their sentimental value. The stakes are high, in more ways than one. The British heritage brand’s performance worsened in the first half of 2024. Andrea Baldo is confident he can get it back on track. When Mulberry CEO Andrea Baldo joined the company from Ganni in August 2024, he was tasked with turning it around. No easy feat, given that revenue was down 19 per cent year-on-year to £56.1 million, and the brand’s underlying loss before tax had sunk to £15.3 million. Central to his turnaround strategy — dubbed ‘Back to the Mulberry Spirit’ — is long-term investment in British manufacturing, and an increasing emphasis on circularity, including both resale and repairs. “Mulberry was born in Somerset and we have a legacy here that we have invested in. To backpedal on our commitment to British manufacturing would mean diluting our brand and losing our roots,” says Baldo. Like many British brands, Mulberry has outsourced much of its production to keep prices down while continuing to produce at scale. Today, the brand makes around 50 per cent of its staple styles in the UK, including the Bayswater and Lily bags. This is split across The Rookery and The Willows, a second Somerset site that opened in 2013.Horse I Will Never Be Over The Hill Im Too Darn Tired To Climb It Shirt
More trend-driven designs are outsourced to leather goods suppliers in Türkiye, China and Vietnam, which are more agile and cost effective. “In order to make our UK production sites viable, they have to be efficient. If you chop and change styles every day, you undermine the viability,” says chief information and operations officer Dharmini Chauhan. She describes the brand’s international suppliers as the “Mulberry diaspora”, mirroring British manufacturing abroad. “If you think about the Mulberry tree, our roots are in the UK, but we branch out to other places. The challenge is branching out from a solid foundation, and making sure the same values apply.” While overseas production is cheaper, Baldo says UK manufacturing is “non-negotiable” for Mulberry. He explains that the brand has justified the higher labour costs by creating a specialised workforce in the UK that is more focused on the creative side of leather goods making.
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