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The final Costume Institute exhibition curated by Vreeland was 1986’s “Dance.” In 1987, the exhibition “In Style: Celebrating Fifty Years of the Costume Institute” celebrated 50 years of the Institute, and the gala in December honored Ms. Vreeland and her many contributions to the department—though Vreeland herself was notably absent. (She would pass away in 1989.) It didn’t take long for the Canadian-born Pat Buckley to leave a distinct mark on Manhattan. The socialite was involved with several charitable causes, most notably the Costume Institute; during the period when Vreeland was consulting, curating, and hosting the Party of the Year, Buckley was also involved, serving as co-chair of the gala from 1979 to 1994. The press, however, was quick to note that Buckley didn’t quite have Vreeland’s panache (though few did). As WWD mused in 1998, “Can the Metropolitan Museum’s Costume Institute survive without Diana Vreeland’s magic touch?” At the time, people were divided on fashion theory versus fashion fantasy. In Vreeland’s wake, with the exhibition handed (back) over to scholars, could the gala garner the same interest?In My House We Say Please Thank You And Go Chiefs Shirt
Caroline Goldthorpe, a curatorial assistant at the Institute, curated 1988’s (“From Queen to Empress: Victorian Dress 1837–1877”), and by 1989, Richard Martin had been brought on as head of the Costume Institute, with Harold Koda supporting. Martin helmed the department until his death in 1999. Designers came out to the 1988 gala in droves, among them Adolfo, Marc Jacobs, Louis Dell’Olio, Donna Karan, Victor Costa (from Dallas), Geoffrey Beene, Mary McFadden, Calvin Klein, Alexander Julian, Zandra Rhodes (from London), Michael Kors, and Bob Mackie. Under Buckley’s patronage, a ticketed on-site after-party was also open to the public—a brilliant maneuver that allowed anyone to be a part of the night.
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