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Recent works of fiction reflect this feeling of frustration. Aesthetica, a 2022 novel by Allie Rowbottom, imagines a cosmetic procedure to reverse all previous work. The Substance, the 2024 film starring Demi Moore, treats the industry’s most enduring promises — better, younger, perfect — as fodder for body horror. Industry executives are wondering the same, particularly since trend forecaster WGSN has predicted the Great Exhaustion, a fog of fatigue that will condense and descend upon us all in 2026. (Has it not already?) This collective feeling, it says, will be fuelled by countless and concurrent global crises: climate change and income inequality; life online and the widening political divide; chronic health issues and skyrocketing healthcare costs; artificial intelligence anxiety and job insecurity; the unending deaths of ongoing war; and the rollback of basic human rights for women, the LGBTQ+ community and people of colour. The firm has circulated a report to help brands navigate potential pain points, but in my opinion, Big Beauty will be just fine.Mc Scuse Me Bitch Mcdonald Shirt
I have a theory that the average beauty routine expands in direct proportion to political upheaval. Call it the Aesthetic Index. The Great Recession of 2007 and the 2008 financial crisis coincided with the arrival of Keeping Up With The Kardashians, as the ‘five-minute face’ of the early noughties gradually gave way to the more elaborate Kardashian base — foundation, concealer, powder, highlighter, contour, bronzer, blush. Following the 2016 election of President Donald Trump, and into the pandemic, skincare was rebranded as selfcare — an act of “political warfare”, in the selectively repurposed words of late activist Audre Lorde — and quickly became the industry’s fastest-growing sector, driving 45 per cent of its growth the next year. Searches for 10-step skincare (cleanser, toner, essence, exfoliant, oil, serum, spot treatment, SPF, moisturiser, mask) surged in the middle of Trump’s first term, and ‘meta face’ emerged near the end of it. The uncanny aesthetic was modelled after Instagram filters, as well as the platform’s photo-editing technology, and brought to life with $17,000 of non-surgical interventions per person per year, according to one 2019 estimation.
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