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Castro Freitas will join Mugler on 1 April. His debut show for Mugler will take place in September, during the high-stake SS26 season, which will see a number of debuts, including Matthieu Blazy at Chanel, Demna at Gucci, Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta and Mark Thomas at Carven. When Charlotte Simone Beecham launched her coat brand 10 years ago, she went by the book. Seventy per cent wholesale, the rest direct-to-consumer (DTC); four collections a year; big retail partnerships including Saks, Harvey Nichols and Matches. Her big, ’70s-style fluffy Penny Lane coats were a hit, and the brand was growing steadily. Then, Covid hit, and her business was, as Beecham puts it, “basically lost overnight”. In her Marylebone studio, surrounded by samples and not much else, Beecham took to Instagram. She started posting these one-off samples on her Instagram Story, and slowly but surely they gained traction. That’s when Beecham pivoted to the drop model she now operates on. Two collections a year (winter one in September; winter two in November), available to shop for one week each, plus one archive sample drop of various silhouettes and fabrications, as well as surplus stock. The next archive drop starts Wednesday, 26 March. “It was from there that I decided to pause what I was doing and focus on the Charlotte Simone community; to work in a slower, more considered, more creative, more sustainable way to make product — which hopefully is worth waiting for and feels a bit more special,” she tells me.Baby Stone Cold Knows Campbell 313 Tee Shirt
Five years on, shoppers are ready and waiting. The brand’s last drop in November 2024 went live at 8pm. At 8.07pm, there were around 12,000 people on the website. It’s the most they’ve seen so far. It’s no wonder that in January, Charlotte Simone claimed a spot on the Lyst Index for the first time; a Charlotte Simone coat was the ranking’s eighth hottest product. It’s thanks, in part, to a celebrity boost: Taylor Swift helped to drive a 242 per cent surge in searches for the British designer’s coats, according to Lyst. But Swift aside, Charlotte Simone site traffic on launch night has increased by over 45 per cent year-on-year, and launch-night sales by 125 per cent. Beecham may have been paying homage to the Penny coat since the beginning, but the style is also having a moment. Long curly fur, typically placed on collars, cuffs and around openings, is expected to increase 15 per cent in the first quarter of 2025, according to Heuritech, a trend forecasting platform that uses image recognition on Instagram to identify fashion trends as they bubble up.
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