Ottawa Senators Surround Shirt
Oude Waag is slowly building international recognition, and just added Selfridges to its growing stockist roster. “Price point is crucial, especially when bringing in brands from Shanghai,” says Ash Ghazali, global creative director of concept store Club 21, in Singapore. “It’s hard to sell a high-end Shanghai brand in our market because people may prefer European luxury brands, so the price must be right.” RedNote is a growing vehicle for Shanghai labels, and brands are increasingly working with KOLs on the platform to drive sales and brand awareness. So much so, One Time showroom — which hosts around 8,000 Chinese buyers, from 300 cities — introduced a RedNote area this season, in collaboration with the platform. KOLs can attend the space and buy or borrow clothing to promote and sell on their RedNote accounts. Around 40 brands are on display in the area, and have developed a deep inventory of commercial pieces from the current season, in order to meet high demand, says One Time marketing executive Renee Zing. Knitwear is a key category in China’s booming DTC market. China is a leading producer of both cashmere and wool, but until recently, very few luxury or contemporary designers created knitwear for wholesale, Not Showroom’s Ma says. Swaying/Knit, launched in 2018, was one of Shanghai’s earlier premium knitwear brands, and focuses on creative knits including intricate crochet dresses and separates. More recently, the designer, Royal College of Art graduate Shasha Wong, has created cashmere matching sets and slouchier knits, in response to the growing casualisation of Chinese fashion. Swaying/Knit now has over 100 domestic stockists and counting and, alongside 8ON8, is Not showroom’s fastest-growing brands, Ma says.Ottawa Senators Surround Shirt
Traditional Chinese techniques were on display last season at SHFW, and the trend continues for AW25, as local consumers increasingly search for artisanship, rooted in Chinese tradition. Growing label AO Yes staged a runway show on Sunday, following a hugely successful “Year of the Snake” Zara collaboration released in January in line with Chinese New Year. AO Yes was founded in 2022 by former Vogue China editor Austin Wang and designer Yansong Liu, and counts Ssense as a stockist, alongside 12 Chinese stores. Its aesthetic riffs on traditional Chinese silhouettes, including Mao jackets (a perennial bestseller) and Qipao dresses, but incorporates more modern elements, like zippers, fabrics like leathers, or extra pockets. “The Mao jacket is our signature, and you can see in these styles I blend Eastern, traditional elements with contemporary design features,” Liu says, speaking from AO Yes’s space in the Tube showroom, a few days out from the show. “This is why we love it,” says Tube owner Zemira Xu, “it’s a blend of traditional and contemporary that customers in China are looking for today.”
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