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Beyond the main show venue, rising label Jacques Wei took over the 50th floor of a high-rise in the Bund neighbourhood for its Thursday night show. It felt more opulent than other outings, with guests served champagne pre-show, and a glittering collection rich with animal prints, fur and beading. It’s a testament to Wei’s growing business, which grew 47 per cent in 2024, even despite broader market challenges, says Wei’s co-founder Austin Feng. Alongside contemporaries Shushu Tong and Markgong, Wei is part of a generation of Shanghai designers that are scaling abroad, bolstered by celebrity dressing and bold show concepts, that stand out on the SHFW calendar. “People have been talking about the fact business is going badly right now. But I don’t buy that shit,” says independent designer Mark Gong, whose eponymous label Markgong showed at Labelhood’s show space on Wednesday afternoon. The venue was covered in pages from newspaper The Markgong News, the thumping soundtrack included Charli XCX’s Guess and Britney’s Gimme More, and guests had hand mirrors on their seats to reflect the lights (and fan themselves with, as Shanghai hit 30 degrees). “We’ve spent a lot of money on marketing and shows for the last three years. When people say the economy is bad, you just go hard,” Gong says, speaking from the Tube showroom hours after his show. Gong dresses the most celebrities out of all the designers at SHFW, including Blackpink’s Lisa, who he dressed for the 2025 Oscars. And unlike other Shanghai labels, which don’t engage with Western social media, his shows regularly go viral on Instagram and X. “It’s like a race with all the brands here,” he says. “So if everyone slows down, you just gotta go fast.”San Jose Sharks Nhl First Responders Night Logo Shirt
Pre-pandemic, Shanghai collections were hyper-creative and avant garde, as Chinese luxury spending boomed and consumers were willing to take risks with high-end fashion. But the market has changed dramatically since. And as we saw globally for AW25, many Shanghai brands played it safer for AW25, focusing on commercial collections which they can sell to China’s increasingly discerning, price-conscious consumer. This is part of the directive from fashion week organisers, who want labels to compete in China’s increasingly saturated contemporary fashion market. Mark Gong featured slogan T-shirts in his collections, alongside opulent eveningwear; Xu Zhi created lower-priced commercial pieces to sell on retail platform Taobao; and Yirintian produced more casual, affordable separates alongside her usual eveningwear, to reflect the market today.
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