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Pre-pandemic, SHFW was in its boom era, with strong footfall in its showrooms, rising interest from international buyers, and a growing roster of independent brands. Once the lockdowns were lifted, it returned for Spring/Summer 2024 and has been rebuilding slowly, against a challenging economic backdrop. Buyer footfall and sales have taken time to recover. The AW25 edition, which took place from 25 March-1 April, was another step in the right direction: showroom traffic was up 10-20 per cent, according to organisers, while many independent designers noted renewed interest from domestic and international buyers. “This season, everybody had lower expectations, but it turned out to be much better,” says Muyuan Ma, marketing executive at Not Showroom, which hosts leading Chinese labels like 8ON8 and Swaying/Knit. “Our list of registered buyers has reduced quite a lot during recent years, but I think we are slowly getting over this very tough period.”Seattle Hockey Now Serving Charisma Uniqueness Nerve And Torrent Shirt
Markgong’s show set was covered in satirical newspaper the Markgong News, as the designer explored the idea of celebrity. While the runway shows are a highlight, SHFW is underpinned by several brand showrooms, including Lab, Tube and Not, plus trade shows Onetimeshow and Mode. It makes for a unique fashion week experience, where you arguably spend more time talking to designers than attending shows, allowing for a clear read on the climate they’re operating in. Last season, SHFW was marked by a strong international brand presence. Moncler brought its blockbuster Genius show concept to the city, while Vivienne Westwood closed the official SHFW calendar, showing its main collection (designed by the in-house team, rather than Andreas Kronthaler) for the first time anywhere since 2019. This time around, there were fewer international luxury brand shows at SHFW, which had the benefit of allowing audiences to focus on local talents. But international labels did stage plenty of events: Prada opened its new restaurant, Wong Kar Wai on Sunday, while many SFW guests attended the Gucci and Loro Piana exhibitions. Most shows in Shanghai take place across two different sites. The official calendar shows are held in one of two vast showspaces in affluent neighbourhood Xintiandi, while independent brand shows use a showspace in multi-brand retailer Labelhood. Unlike other small fashion weeks in Copenhagen or Berlin, designers of all sizes produce impressive show sets at SHFW, particularly in the Labelhood space. There was falling sand at Ili Node and ominous spikes punctuating the runway at Oude Waag, while models kicked at fallen leaves on the ground at Private Policy and hundreds of newspaper pages at Markgong.
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