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In the Labelhood showroom, several of the smaller brands started out in menswear but pivoted to womenswear to boost their growth potential, like three-year-old luxury label Ænrmòus, which focuses on sculptural, layered tailoring. “Now, we focus on menswear internationally and womenswear or unisex here, that’s the best way,” says Ænrmòus co-founder Kenneth Kwok Woon Yu. The brand also introduced more muted, earthy colour palettes to chime with the Chinese consumer, who experts agree are increasingly investing in greys and neutrals this season (in Europe, for now, customers prefer black). Some labels have stuck to menswear, but refocused their efforts on quality and craft, rather than streetwear. Decade-old label Attempt started out selling contemporary-priced streetwear on Chinese e-commerce platform Taobao in 2015, and rapidly scaled, building a “very big” direct-to-consumer (DTC) community. But as the streetwear market slowed, and founder Liang Dong grew up (he’s now 34), the label underwent a rethink, pivoting to slower, more considered fashion, sold wholesale via Tube showroom. For the last two seasons, Dong has created contemporary menswear pieces, with some hand dyed using natural dyes from materials like pomegranate or ginger. And while the business has reduced in scale, his higher price point means revenues have remained stable, the designer says. “Consumers in China want connection today, they don’t just need more stuff, they want to know there’s a process behind the clothes, particularly in menswear.”Miami Dolphins Lady Sassy Classy And A Tad Badassy Diamond Heart Shirt
Since Zhi returned to China, he’s scaled to 100 stockists — but it’s been “all about e-commerce” for the brand, he says. The most important platform for sales is mass market platform Taobao, where Xu Zhi sells entry-level pieces like cardigans, for around RMB 2,000 (roughly $250). “We’ve had to adjust our products and create more entry-level pieces to fit that consumers, and it’s working well,” he says. Today, Yirantian has a handful of “very small” stockists in Europe and 40 stockists in China. As a result, like the majority of designers Vogue Business interviewed for this story, she’s had to launch DTC e-commerce, to bolster her wholesale business. “We’ve made some changes this year, and we now operate the business in two ways — one for wholesale and one for e-commerce,” the designer says. Yirantian now works with a lot of key opinion leaders (KOLs) on social media platform Red (aka Xiaohuongshu), the video and live-stream feed that’s exploded in China over the last two years, upending the Chinese social media landscape and accelerating the trend cycle, the way TikTok did in the West. On Red, KOLs regularly post videos or live stream wearing Yirantian looks, which are instantly shoppable. When I ask for an example, my Shanghai Fashion Week guide, Iraina Koo, quickly pulls out her phone and shows me her favourite creator twirling in a meadow in an all-white two piece, which she could purchase in two clicks. “On Red, consumers are more likely to buy a full look once they see a KOL wearing it,” Yirantian says, which is why she’s considering designing full-look matching products to serve this customer.
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