Morgan Geekie Is Elite Short Shift Shirt
In recent years, Chinese labels have learnt a lot more about the domestic market and have adapted their categories and product offerings to meet consumers where they are, says Zemira Xu, founder of the Tube showroom. Tube is one of Shanghai’s leading sales showrooms, featuring some of the city’s fastest-growing labels, including Zhi, Jacques Wei and Mark Gong. As athleisure and then quiet luxury arrived during the pandemic, comfortable, casual fashion has taken hold in China over the last two years, designers agree. It’s a first for a luxury market previously dominated by bold, avant-garde and formal styles. Ten-year-old label Yirantian was the first brand to be inducted into Shanghai retailer Labelhood’s Lab Showroom (then named Dong Liang) in 2014, after Labelhood founder Tasha Liu approached designer Guo Yirantian following her graduation from the London College of Fashion. Yirantian returned to Shanghai shortly after and built a robust womenswear business, focused on feminine, sophisticated workwear and eveningwear. In 2018, the brand had around 70 stockists globally. But since the pandemic, the designer relocated to Shanghai, and is now stocked in 40 Chinese stores.Morgan Geekie Is Elite Short Shift Shirt
Yirantian’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection features more relaxed pieces for the first time, with separates, knitwear and sportswear, as well as her signature dresses and tailoring, using the same prints or colours across formal and casual garments. “We’re following the minds of the customers,” Yirantian says. “Our brand has always been feminine, or formal for the office woman, but after Covid, I think lots of people in China want a more relaxed lifestyle. So we added that to collections and created multiple versions of the same look, for different occasions.” Before the pandemic, 10-year-old brand Staff Only held presentations at Pitti Uomo and London Fashion Week Men’s (SS19), as well as a regular showroom in Paris. Today, two-thirds of Staff Only revenues come from China, with 30 domestic and 20 small international stockists. And the brand has found that versatility is crucial to capturing the Chinese shopper’s attention. When I visit co-founders Une Yea and Cory Cheng at the brand showroom, they are wearing looks from the new AW25 collection. Cheng sports a cropped, boxy brown jacket with a built-in, matching supersized tie, slung over one shoulder. The all-in-one piece is inspired by a shirt and tie look the brand originally showed in its debut collection in 2015. Elsewhere, the collection features reversible bombers, detachable elbow pads and mouldable ties, which the wearer can adjust “depending on their mood”.
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