Officials Zzoomm Lankester Number 7 Shirt
Balenciaga’s AW22 show centred around Ukraine. The models, some holding trash bags, walked against artificial snow and wind, within a massive snowglobe that kept attendees behind the glass. That same month, Balenciaga became embroiled in a controversy that compromised Demna’s previously unimpeachable record not only as a designer for his times, but also a champion of just political and environmental causes. Two ill-considered Balenciaga campaigns contained a series of negatively ambiguous and unwittingly disturbing, even sinister, details. The multiple acts of creative carelessness and lack of oversight that enabled these campaigns to be signed off were widely — and wildly — conflated, then decried as the conscious product of Demna’s design.Officials Zzoomm Lankester Number 7 Shirt
After some poorly executed crisis management, the house and its designer apologised, however, the damage was done: Demna’s previously unchecked upward arc took a reputational hit. While he has emerged from the controversy, and since presented some of his best Balenciaga shows and collections, it was a painful episode. Ever since Sabato De Sarno’s exit on 6 February (and in some unseemly cases even before), there has been widespread speculation and rumour-mongering about the identity of his successor. Many names were mooted, and even published, during a orgy of often wildly wrong and borderline toxic gossip that has convulsed fashion during a period of wider industry change. At the briefing, Bellettini and Cantino smiled when asked about the rumours regarding Gucci — to which a succession of names, most consistently that of Hedi Slimane, have been both confidently and completely incorrectly applied. “To be honest, [it has been] very useful!” said Bellettini. Diplomatically, she and Cantino implied that the variety of the (wrongly) linked designer names were an educational form of market research. And doubtless the scrutiny focused elsewhere also afforded them and Demna space to marinate their plans for Gucci’s future. She added her belief that the announcement of Demna’s renewed contract at Balenciaga last November — which in truth was drafted to last just long enough to take him to his end-date following July’s couture show — had put even fashion’s most rabid tattlers off the scent.
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