2025 Rate Bowl December 26Th Phoenix Arizona New Mexico Lobos Helmeshirt
I was back in New York by the time that Anthony Vaccarello sent those rich, rich colors—fuchsia, amber, lapis, indigo, vermilion, olive, and then leopard—down his marbled runway, but it had all the same effect from afar. Mark Holgate noted in his review that there was a vulnerability in the collection’s simplicity, which I guess goes to prove Brene Brown’s theory about the source of true power.—Mark Guiducci, Creative Editorial Director Watching a show that you’ve spent years reviewing for Vogue Runway but which has been reassigned can stir relief or regret. Not gonna lie, I was touched by regret watching this bravura Dilara show. Because I wanted to hear her this season recipe for the feminocentric ferocity that stirred a collection full of boundary busting and ball-breaking heroines. Plus it was classic Dilara but also new Dilara: the angrily shaggy hair explosions and the closing leather tattoo look, where had those come from? And yet it was also something of a relief to be able to soak up this show (not quite her finest, but in her top three, for sure) without typing the notes that form the disjointed trail of crumbs that eventually leads to a finished review; instead it felt a fresh pleasure to passively watch her work, and be transfixed.—Luke Leitch, Vogue Runway Contributor2025 Rate Bowl December 26Th Phoenix Arizona New Mexico Lobos Helmeshirt
What makes a show memorable? The formula varies, but it often hinges on an elusive mix of showmanship and strong design. It jolts your pulse, sharpens your focus, and leaves your head spinning—much like downing a double espresso on an empty stomach. As I scroll through the countless fashion shows crammed into my overcrowded headspace, this season’s Marni emerged as a standout moment that had me on the edge of my seat. I’ve been following Francesco Risso’s journey since he took the helm at Marni, and he has consistently proven to be both an entertaining raconteur and a designer who balances edge and poetry—with a dash of fearless, bonkers, almost Dada energy thrown into his repertoire for good measure. His work isn’t just visually compelling, it’s also an intuitive reflection of the cultural pulse, woven into a radically whimsical practice that sets him apart from most designers.
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