Wolf Alice White Horses Shirt
Eliminating PFAS from the supply chain is likely to lead to additional costs, Wang notes, as companies may need to invest more in research and development to find alternatives to PFAS coatings and materials, or carry out supply chain audits or collaborations with suppliers. “Alternatives may not yet match the functional benefits provided by PFAS, potentially affecting the quality and performance of garments,” she says. “And the need for additional testing and certification for alternative materials can drive costs, which might be passed on to consumers.” Customers may also notice the difference in their garments, with PFAS-free materials potentially looking and feeling different. One alternative to PFAS materials is C0, a fluorocarbon-free DWR (durable water repellent), which uses a coating made up of millions of microscopic pores to allow the fabric to repel water, says Christina Dean, founder of Hong Kong-based sustainable fashion NGO Redress, which works with designers and manufacturers to drive fashion circularity. But this product has some limitations with resisting oil-borne stains and may not be adapted to all applications. Importantly, it could cost up to 15 per cent more than PFAS-based water-repellent materials, Dean says — costs that brands may have to absorb themselves or pass on to suppliers.Wolf Alice White Horses Shirt
For Patagonia, going PFAS-free was far from simple. “We went through hundreds of combinations of fabrics and treatments before we were able to phase PFAS out while maintaining the quality and performance of our products,” says Patagonia communications executive Gin Ando. “For some of our products, an alternative was easy to find or we removed the waterproofing application entirely because we learnt it wasn’t necessary. Our technical products, however, are used in some of the harshest environments on the planet. For users whose lives depend on those products’ performance, we had to be sure what we put out worked, and that took time.” Ando notes that “quality is an environmental issue, too”, as Patagonia did not want PFAS alternatives to shorten the lifespans of its products.
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