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Glycolic acid is a chemical exfoliant that belongs to a family of acids known as alpha hydroxy acids, or AHAs—a term you’ve probably heard being bandied about in skincare circles. Widely used and derived from sugar cane, other AHAs include lactic, citric, and mandelic acids. “It is found in many skincare products like face washes and serums, in mild strengths, but is often used in stronger formulations by professionals as a skin peel,” says beauty specialist Nilam Holmes. Glycolic acid is a powerhouse ingredient with so many skin benefits. “It’s the ultimate exfoliator,” explains skin expert Keren Bartov. Loosening the glue that holds dead cells to the skin’s outer surface, the stratum corneum, glycolic acid helps to reveal the younger, fresher cells underneath. “Furthermore, because it has the smallest molecular structure of all AHAs, it can penetrate deeper and faster into the skin than other acids,” adds Bartov. Thanks to this ability to penetrate the dermis—the layer of skin beneath the epidermis where collagen is secreted by fibroblast cells—it helps promote collagen synthesis, too.Hanover Drunk Raccoon Trashed Panda Shirt
It’s also fantastic for treating breakouts. “Glycolic is great for anyone who is suffering with breakouts,” says facialist Teresa Tarmey. “I find salicylic drying, which can then create another problem.” As with any acid, overuse or combining it with other harsh acids can lead to skin irritation. “Using glycolic acid in high strengths too frequently can lead to over-exfoliation, which can destroy the skin’s protective barrier,” says Holmes. “That said, it can be used every day in mild strengths. It really depends on the formula.” If your skin becomes sensitive, shows signs of redness or flaking, or if it feels fragile, stop use. “The protective invisible shield which protects our skin from daily pathogen attack could have been breached,” says Diane Ackers, specialist at Doctors Formula. “If the skin looks ultra-smooth, almost waxy in appearance, this is often the first sign that you’re using too many acids.” If in doubt, start with the lowest concentration of acid, use it every two to three days, and gradually increase your frequency of use and strength of acid as your skin adjusts.
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