Officials Where Amazing Happens Shirt
A few days later, David and I met between the yellow fingerling potatoes and the long purple shallots at the greenmarket in New York’s Union Square to talk about Thanksgiving. Two years ago, when he and some friends got together on Cape Cod, the menu began with cold, pristine oysters from Wellfleet and Cotuit, progressed through a terrine of foie gras and asparagus, and finished with a crisply roasted wild turkey. Last year he cooked dinner with a handful of friends in his empty restaurant kitchen and lit the dining room with candelabra. And this year, for our joint Thanksgiving menu, he was thinking of squashes and chestnuts, root vegetables and quinces, maybe venison baked in a salt crust perfumed with pine needles, or wild game birds or maybe rabbit—David’s French-born maternal grandmother cooked rabbit with prunes on Thanksgiving. David was born one of nine children to a French emigre family that settled in the farming area along the Connecticut-Rhode Island border. He remembers raking the fields with his brothers and sisters to collect the small onions, potatoes, squashes, and turnips that the farmers had missed, then wrapping them in foil and building a fire of tomato stalks. All day the vegetables were slowly roasted until they caramelized in their own sugary juices. David thinks that these outdoor vegetable banquets became the basis of his current cooking. Like Brillat-Savarin’s wild turkey dinner in 1794, David’s food is marked by the finest organic American ingredients and rigorous French technique. But unlike Brillat-Savarin, David thickens his sauces with brilliantly colored vegetable pulps and herb oils instead of cream and butter.Officials Where Amazing Happens Shirt
Nearly every Sunday, David and his family traveled over the Rhode Island border to his grandmother’s 40-acre farm for a daylong feast. Her example taught David that sharing a meal has the power to “close the gap that separates us from our true selves and from our deeper relations with each other,” as he puts it. “This in essence is the reason I do what I do in my work, providing the occasion to draw people together.” And this is why Thanksgiving is important to him. David has worked in restaurants since the age of fifteen. In 1977, he began traveling to France and Switzerland, apprenticing himself to many of the greatest chefs of that generation—Girardet, Bocuse, Lenôtre, and especially Roger Vergé at the Moulin de Mougins on the Riviera. Starting in 1986, David and his brother built one of the most beautiful restaurants in New York City—with vaulted ceilings, creamy walls, and an eighteenth-century door from Provence in a loft building on Duane Street. Restaurant Bouley was opened in 1987, when David was 34, three inauspicious weeks before the October stock market crash that would doom so many eating places in New York City. But within three years, David had begun to win every accolade the profession had to offer four stars from The New York Times, awards from the James Beard Foundation for the city’s best restaurant and the nation’s best chef, the highest rating in Zagat, and a reservation book that rarely has a dinner opening closer than two or three weeks away.
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